Changing MKMapView colors
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What I ended up with was adding MKAnnotation with 50% transparent black background color. Then I moved the annotation to the back of the stack supported by the mapview so that all other annotations can interact with.
Where's the really curious when the map moves ... OK if you're on iOS4, but a little tricky on iOS3 devices. Well, in the end I got it.
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I agree with @RolandasR, you can try creating a custom overlay like in this answer from fooobar.com/questions/1134476 / ...
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